The Marlborough Bra - Round Two
In 2014 I attempted to make my first underwire bra - the Marlborough bra.
Fast forward over a year later and I've attempted to make my second one. I think I needed all that time to build up my patience and courage to attempt a project that can call for such finicky fitting alterations. I'm not sure that it was such a great idea to wait that long though, because this time around pretty much felt like I was sewing it for the very first time again.
I can barely remember what I did yesterday. Don't ask me to remember what I did over a year ago.
Fortunately, my blog post had some notes about what I wanted to do differently this time around. I sewed a 32C once again, but I made a couple of modifications. First I widened the bridge by about 1/8th of an inch and lengthened the band by about a 1/4 of an inch on each side because it was too tight last time. It turns out that I didn't lengthen the band enough because it's still a bit tighter than I would like. I also followed Kathy's tutorial on changing the shaping of the cups for a shallow bust. This resulted in a perfect fitting cup...on my left breast. It turns out that my right breast is smaller so I'm still getting a bit of puckering on that side. Ah, the things that sewing teaches you about your body.
I've been wearing this bra around for the past week and have figured out some additional changes that will need to be made in future bras.
1) The underwire ends a little too low on my armpit side so I think I'll raise that side of the bra a bit to allow for a slightly taller underwire (as it was, I had to snip off part of my underwire to make it fit this pattern). Just a side note about snipping off parts of your underwire. I just cut it using wire cutters and then dipped the edges in Plasti-Dip, as recommended by Amy. Just a word of caution - Plasti-Dip is addictive and you'll leave the process wanted to dip everything in your house in this mixture. We may or may not have dipped a Strawberry Shortcake doll in Plasti-Dip. Consider yourself warned.
2) I'll add some additional length to the band so that it fits better around my ribcage.
3) I'm debating reconfiguring the cups and bridge to allow for more of a plunge style Part of me feels that I should wait until I have the basic bra perfected before I start messing with bigger elements and part of me says "just go for it." We'll see which part wins.
As for the sewing, I used the Marlborough instructions, but I also relied heavily on Cloth Habit's bra sew-a-long. I can not say enough good things about all the work that she put into putting that sew-a-long together. Thank you!
I used fabric from a kit from Sweet Cups Bra Supply, although I used bra strapping from my stash since the bra strapping in the kit was too short. Plus, I wanted my strapping to match my lace. Speaking of which, both were dyed using Jacquard acid dye in the chartreuse color way. The lace is from Tailor Made, which also seems to sell beautiful bra making kits.
Alright, folks, that's a wrap. Now excuse me while I go put my shirt back on.